Celebrating a Bumper Crop of Red Currants

This year, my garden surprised me with an extraordinary bounty of red currants. One bush alone yielded an impressive eight pounds of these vibrant, tangy berries. With more red currants than I knew what to do with, I decided to turn this abundance into delicious red currant jelly. The result? A delectable treat that captures the essence of summer in every spoonful.

The Joy of Growing Red Currants

Red currants are this gardener’s delight. These small, bright berries are not only beautiful to look at but also packed with flavor and nutrients. Growing them has been a rewarding experience, from watching the tiny green berries emerge in the spring to seeing them ripen into juicy, red jewels in the summer. When I look a bush that's laden with these ruby-like fruit I'm transported to the farm in Normandy where I learned to love these little things.

This year, the conditions must have been just right — ample sunshine, the perfect amount of rain, and perhaps a bit of luck. My red currant bushes thrived like never before, producing a bumper crop that exceeded all expectations.

Harvesting the Bounty

Harvesting red currants is a labor of love. The clusters of berries are delicate and require gentle handling to avoid bruising. As I picked the currants, I couldn’t help but marvel at their brilliant color and the sheer quantity. By the end of the day, I had collected eight pounds of red currants from a single bush—an impressive feat for any gardener.

What to Do with an Abundance of Red Currants?

Faced with this abundant harvest, I pondered various ways to use the red currants. While they are delicious eaten fresh, their tartness makes them perfect for jams, jellies, and sauces. I decided to make red currant jelly, a classic preserve that allows the unique flavor of the berries to shine.

Making Red Currant Jelly

Making red currant jelly is a straightforward process that results in a stunningly vibrant and flavorful preserve. Here’s the recipe I used, which turned out to be absolutely terrific. Red currants have a lot of pectin in them naturally, so a jelly made from them sets all on its own. It's like magic.

Red Currant Jelly Recipe

Ingredients:

• 4 pounds red currants (to yield about 5 cups of juice)
• 4 cups granulated sugar
• 1/4 cup water (if needed)

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Currants:

Rinse the red currants thoroughly and remove them from their stems. You don’t need to be overly meticulous, as the stems will be strained out later.

2. Cook the Currants:

Place the red currants in a large pot. If the currants are particularly dry, add 1/4 cup of water to prevent sticking.

Cook the currants over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften and release their juice. This usually takes about 10-15 minutes.

3. Extract the Juice:

Pour the cooked currants through a fine-mesh sieve or a jelly bag into a large bowl. Press down on the solids to extract as much juice as possible. You should end up with approximately 5 cups of juice.

4. Make the Jelly:

In a large pot, combine the red currant juice and granulated sugar. Stir until the sugar is fully dissolved.

Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to medium. Continue boiling, stirring frequently, until the jelly reaches the setting point. This should take about 20-25 minutes. You can test the set by placing a small amount of jelly on a chilled plate; if it wrinkles when pushed with your finger, it’s ready.

5. Jar the Jelly:

While the jelly is cooking, sterilize your jars and lids by boiling them in water for 10 minutes.

Carefully ladle the hot jelly into the sterilized jars, leaving about 1/4 inch of headspace. Wipe the rims of the jars with a clean, damp cloth, then seal with the lids.

6. Process the Jars:

Process the filled jars in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes to ensure a proper seal. Remove the jars from the water and let them cool completely on a towel or cooling rack.

7. Enjoy Your Jelly:

Once cooled, check the seals and store any unsealed jars in the refrigerator. Properly sealed jars can be stored in a cool, dark place for up to a year.

A Sweet Conclusion

Making red currant jelly was the perfect way to celebrate my garden's bounty. The jelly’s vibrant color and tangy-sweet flavor make it a delightful addition to toast, pastries, or even savory dishes. If you find yourself with an abundance of red currants, I highly recommend giving this recipe a try. It’s a wonderful way to preserve the taste of summer and share it with friends and family throughout the year.

Beware of Cedar-Quince Rust: A Cautionary Tale

As a gardening enthusiast, I often envision our landscapes as harmonious havens where various plants coexist beautifully. However, sometimes my well-intentioned plantings can lead to unexpected and unwelcome consequences. One such example is the dreaded cedar-quince rust, a fungal disease that can wreak havoc on gardens if the right conditions are met. I recently experienced this firsthand when I mistakenly planted a quince tree next to a collection of dwarf cedars and junipers, unleashing this terrible fungus.

Understanding Cedar-Quince Rust

Cedar-quince rust (Gymnosporangium clavipes) is a fungal disease that affects a variety of plants, including quince, apple, pear, and several types of junipers and cedars. The disease requires two different host plants to complete its life cycle: a member of the rose family (such as quince) and a member of the cypress family (such as junipers and cedars). This bi-host relationship allows the fungus to spread and thrive, causing significant damage to both types of plants.

Symptoms and Impact

The signs of cedar-quince rust vary depending on the host plant:

On Quince and Other Rose Family Hosts:

• Early Spring: Look for small, yellow-orange spots on leaves, stems, and fruit.
• Late Spring to Early Summer: These spots enlarge and develop a rust-colored, powdery appearance. Infected fruit may become deformed, making it unsuitable for consumption.

On Junipers and Cedars:

• Spring: Galls (swellings) form on twigs and branches, turning bright orange and gelatinous when wet.
• Summer: The galls dry out and harden, remaining on the plant and releasing spores to infect nearby rose family hosts the following year.

The impact of cedar-quince rust can be devastating. Infected quince trees may suffer from reduced fruit yield and quality, while junipers and cedars can experience stunted growth and dieback of affected branches. The aesthetic value of both types of plants is also compromised, diminishing the overall beauty of the garden.

My Experience

In my eagerness to create a diverse and visually appealing garden bed, I planted a quince tree next to a collection of dwarf cedars and junipers. Unbeknownst to me, this combination was a recipe for disaster. Within a season, I noticed the telltale signs of cedar-quince rust: orange spots on the quince tree's leaves and fruit, and strange galls on the junipers. Despite my best efforts to manage the outbreak, the fungus spread rapidly, causing significant damage to both the quince tree and the surrounding evergreens.

Prevention and Management

Preventing cedar-quince rust requires careful planning and proactive measures:

• Avoid Susceptible Plant Combinations: Do not plant rose family hosts (quince, apple, pear) near junipers and cedars. If space is limited, choose disease-resistant varieties.
• Prune and Destroy Infected Parts: Remove and destroy any infected leaves, fruit, and branches from both types of plants to reduce the spread of spores.
• Fungicides: Apply fungicides labeled for cedar-quince rust as a preventive measure, especially during the early spring when the fungus is most active. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
• Improve Air Circulation: Ensure adequate spacing between plants to promote air circulation, which helps reduce the humidity that fosters fungal growth.
• Regular Monitoring: Regularly inspect your plants for signs of rust and take action at the first indication of infection.

Cedar-quince rust is a formidable foe for gardeners, but with knowledge and vigilance, it can be managed and prevented. My experience serves as a cautionary tale: always research the compatibility of plants before introducing them to your garden. By understanding the dynamics of plant diseases and taking proactive steps, you can maintain a healthy, vibrant garden free from the ravages of cedar-quince rust. Happy gardening!

Fixing an accidentally cut landscape wire

I love my landscape lighting. Most of the trees in my backyard are lit with uplights and it looks fantastic.

However, about a week ago I was moving some peonies to make room for a new perennial garden and I sliced though one of the line current wires that supplies my lighting system. I'd never done it before and since it was a buried line without any conduit I was at a loss for how to fix it. I mean, how do I splice a wire and then bury it again? It was a conundrum that had me scratching my head. So off to Google I went.

Who knew that there's such a thing as a line current splicing kit that's intended to be buried? Well, here's what I learned. First, buy one of these:

Then do this:

Step-by-Step Guide to Splicing an Outdoor Wire with the Gardner Bender 14-8 Butt Splice Kit

Materials Needed:

• Gardner Bender 14-8 Butt Splice Black kit
• Wire cutters/strippers
• Utility knife
• Heat gun or lighter
• Electrical tape
• Waterproof silicone sealant (optional)

Steps:

1. Turn Off Power:

Ensure the power to the landscape light or the line current wire you are working on is turned off at the breaker box.

2. Locate and Expose the Damaged Wire:

Use a utility knife to carefully remove the soil around the damaged area of the wire. Make sure you have enough room to work comfortably.

3. Cut and Strip the Wires:

Use wire cutters to remove the damaged section of the wire.

Strip about 1/2 inch of insulation off the ends of the wires you need to splice.

4. Prepare the Butt Splice:

Take the butt splice connector from the Gardner Bender kit and ensure it is the correct size for your wires.

5. Insert the Wires:

Insert one stripped wire end into one side of the butt splice connector.

Use a crimping tool to crimp the connector onto the wire securely.

Repeat this process for the other wire on the opposite side of the connector.

6. Crimp the Connection:

Make sure both wires are securely crimped into the butt splice connector. Tug gently on the wires to ensure they are firmly attached.

7. Seal the Connection:

Slide the heat shrink tubing from the kit over the splice connection.

Use a heat gun or lighter to evenly heat the tubing until it shrinks tightly around the connection. This helps to insulate and protect the splice from moisture.

8. Apply Electrical Tape:

Wrap electrical tape around the entire splice area for extra protection. Ensure that the tape overlaps and covers the ends of the heat shrink tubing.

9. Optional: Apply Waterproof Silicone Sealant:

For added waterproofing, you can apply a layer of waterproof silicone sealant over the taped area. Allow it to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions.

10. Bury the Wire:

Once the sealant is dry, carefully re-bury the wire in the soil. Make sure it is well protected and not at risk of being damaged again.

11. Turn On Power:

Turn the power back on at the breaker box and test the landscape light to ensure the splice is working correctly.

Tips:

Use Quality Tools: Ensure you have a good-quality wire stripper and crimper to make the job easier and more secure.

Check for Damage: Before you bury the wire, double-check that the splice is secure and there are no exposed wires.

Regular Inspections: Periodically check the spliced area to ensure it remains in good condition, especially after heavy rains or extreme weather conditions.

Good luck!

My new miter saw

Craftsman 7-1/4-in 9-Amp Single Bevel Sliding Compound Corded Miter Saw

Please note that I purchased this saw myself, it wasn't provided by Craftsman. The Craftsman 7-1/4-in 9-Amp Single Bevel Sliding Compound Corded Miter Saw, available at Lowe's for $179, is a versatile and reliable tool for various DIY projects. I recently purchased this miter saw and have successfully used it to build a compost bin and a 20-foot long picket fence.

Performance

The 9-amp motor provides ample power for most cutting tasks, making it suitable for both soft and hardwoods. During my projects, the saw delivered clean, precise cuts with ease. The sliding feature is particularly useful for handling wider materials, and the single bevel capability allows for angled cuts, which was essential for the picket fence.

Design and Features

The saw is designed with user convenience in mind. It is relatively lightweight and easy to maneuver, which is great for transporting it to different work sites. The ergonomic handle and clear blade guard enhance safety and comfort during use. The dust collection system, while not perfect, does a decent job of minimizing sawdust, keeping the workspace cleaner.

Pros

• Affordable: At $179, it offers great value for money.
• Powerful Motor: The 9-amp motor handles various materials effectively.
• Sliding Mechanism: Allows for cutting wider boards with precision.
• Ease of Use: Lightweight and ergonomic design makes it user-friendly.

Cons

• Dust Collection: While functional, the dust collection system could be improved for better efficiency.
• Single Bevel: Limited to single bevel cuts, which might be restrictive for more complex projects.

Conclusion

The CRAFTSMAN 7-1/4-in 9-Amp Single Bevel Sliding Compound Corded Miter Saw is an excellent addition to any DIY enthusiast's toolkit. Its combination of power, precision, and affordability makes it a standout option for a variety of home renovation and construction projects. Whether you're building a compost bin, a picket fence, or tackling other woodworking tasks, this saw is up to the challenge.

The Irish Setter Fifty, a review

 

A few weeks ago I received a pair of Irish Setter Fifty boots from Irish Setter in exchange for an honest and candid review.

To quote the Irish Setter website: 

The 6-inch leather Setter Fifty boot is inspired by the original Irish Setter that became a top-seller in the 1950s. Fully updated for a new era, it features sustainably sourced full-grain leather, an outsole made from 51% post-industrial materials and Goodyear Welt construction that is both durable and resoleable. Its classic design features inspired details like the white wedge sole, pinched moc stitching detail and a familiar silhouette. For added comfort, it has a CuShin™ tongue that reduces pressure on the shin and a highly breathable stretch nylon collar. The pull loop also makes the boot very easy to put on and take off.

The boots arrived just as I was preparing to build a new three-bin composting system out of 2x6s. Although the Irish Setter Fifty boots are billed as a casual boot and not a work boot I thought I'd wear them to the lumber yard to pull and load around 25 2x6x12s. I went on to wear them to unload my lumber onto the driveway and since I was already in the zone, I kept them on as I set up my chop saw and then cut all that lumber into the sizes I needed for this project.

I have another pair of Irish Setter boots, the Ashby model, and I've worn them exclusively for all of my house and yard projects for the last two years. They are an excellent boot and after two years they feel as good now as they did when I first bought them. I keep those boots in my mud room and at any point I could have changed into them if the Fifties weren't up to the task at hand.

But the Fifty boots were so comfortable I just kept them on. They held up without a problem and as soon as I dustem them off they looked like they were brand new again.

The soles are what make these boots so remarkable. There's just enough spring to them that they remind me of how the sole of a running shoe feels. My other Irish Setter boots are a bit more stiff but the Fifty felt already broken in as soon as I put them on.

The Fifty has a fabric collar and this makes them fit really well. I can tighten the laces and not feel like I'm restricting the flexibility of my ankles. The boot's cushioned tongue keeps my ankles flexing as well. That fabric collar also makes the boots weight less, so wearing them all day doesn't leave me with tired legs. The Irish Setter Fifty is a great boot and I'll keep these for years. That they're resoleable makes that a guarentee.

Now that they sailed through a field trial as a light duty work boot, they're going to be used as they were intended -- as a casual boot. I can see myself wearing these as I would any other casual leather shoe. In fact, I wore them to lunch last weekend and the compliments just rolled in.

Good boots are never cheap and cheap boots are a waste of money. Irish Setter makes a very good boot at a very fair price. You can even buy them directly from their website.