Beware of Cedar-Quince Rust: A Cautionary Tale

As a gardening enthusiast, I often envision our landscapes as harmonious havens where various plants coexist beautifully. However, sometimes my well-intentioned plantings can lead to unexpected and unwelcome consequences. One such example is the dreaded cedar-quince rust, a fungal disease that can wreak havoc on gardens if the right conditions are met. I recently experienced this firsthand when I mistakenly planted a quince tree next to a collection of dwarf cedars and junipers, unleashing this terrible fungus.

Understanding Cedar-Quince Rust

Cedar-quince rust (Gymnosporangium clavipes) is a fungal disease that affects a variety of plants, including quince, apple, pear, and several types of junipers and cedars. The disease requires two different host plants to complete its life cycle: a member of the rose family (such as quince) and a member of the cypress family (such as junipers and cedars). This bi-host relationship allows the fungus to spread and thrive, causing significant damage to both types of plants.

Symptoms and Impact

The signs of cedar-quince rust vary depending on the host plant:

On Quince and Other Rose Family Hosts:

• Early Spring: Look for small, yellow-orange spots on leaves, stems, and fruit.
• Late Spring to Early Summer: These spots enlarge and develop a rust-colored, powdery appearance. Infected fruit may become deformed, making it unsuitable for consumption.

On Junipers and Cedars:

• Spring: Galls (swellings) form on twigs and branches, turning bright orange and gelatinous when wet.
• Summer: The galls dry out and harden, remaining on the plant and releasing spores to infect nearby rose family hosts the following year.

The impact of cedar-quince rust can be devastating. Infected quince trees may suffer from reduced fruit yield and quality, while junipers and cedars can experience stunted growth and dieback of affected branches. The aesthetic value of both types of plants is also compromised, diminishing the overall beauty of the garden.

My Experience

In my eagerness to create a diverse and visually appealing garden bed, I planted a quince tree next to a collection of dwarf cedars and junipers. Unbeknownst to me, this combination was a recipe for disaster. Within a season, I noticed the telltale signs of cedar-quince rust: orange spots on the quince tree's leaves and fruit, and strange galls on the junipers. Despite my best efforts to manage the outbreak, the fungus spread rapidly, causing significant damage to both the quince tree and the surrounding evergreens.

Prevention and Management

Preventing cedar-quince rust requires careful planning and proactive measures:

• Avoid Susceptible Plant Combinations: Do not plant rose family hosts (quince, apple, pear) near junipers and cedars. If space is limited, choose disease-resistant varieties.
• Prune and Destroy Infected Parts: Remove and destroy any infected leaves, fruit, and branches from both types of plants to reduce the spread of spores.
• Fungicides: Apply fungicides labeled for cedar-quince rust as a preventive measure, especially during the early spring when the fungus is most active. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
• Improve Air Circulation: Ensure adequate spacing between plants to promote air circulation, which helps reduce the humidity that fosters fungal growth.
• Regular Monitoring: Regularly inspect your plants for signs of rust and take action at the first indication of infection.

Cedar-quince rust is a formidable foe for gardeners, but with knowledge and vigilance, it can be managed and prevented. My experience serves as a cautionary tale: always research the compatibility of plants before introducing them to your garden. By understanding the dynamics of plant diseases and taking proactive steps, you can maintain a healthy, vibrant garden free from the ravages of cedar-quince rust. Happy gardening!

Fixing an accidentally cut landscape wire

I love my landscape lighting. Most of the trees in my backyard are lit with uplights and it looks fantastic.

However, about a week ago I was moving some peonies to make room for a new perennial garden and I sliced though one of the line current wires that supplies my lighting system. I'd never done it before and since it was a buried line without any conduit I was at a loss for how to fix it. I mean, how do I splice a wire and then bury it again? It was a conundrum that had me scratching my head. So off to Google I went.

Who knew that there's such a thing as a line current splicing kit that's intended to be buried? Well, here's what I learned. First, buy one of these:

Then do this:

Step-by-Step Guide to Splicing an Outdoor Wire with the Gardner Bender 14-8 Butt Splice Kit

Materials Needed:

• Gardner Bender 14-8 Butt Splice Black kit
• Wire cutters/strippers
• Utility knife
• Heat gun or lighter
• Electrical tape
• Waterproof silicone sealant (optional)

Steps:

1. Turn Off Power:

Ensure the power to the landscape light or the line current wire you are working on is turned off at the breaker box.

2. Locate and Expose the Damaged Wire:

Use a utility knife to carefully remove the soil around the damaged area of the wire. Make sure you have enough room to work comfortably.

3. Cut and Strip the Wires:

Use wire cutters to remove the damaged section of the wire.

Strip about 1/2 inch of insulation off the ends of the wires you need to splice.

4. Prepare the Butt Splice:

Take the butt splice connector from the Gardner Bender kit and ensure it is the correct size for your wires.

5. Insert the Wires:

Insert one stripped wire end into one side of the butt splice connector.

Use a crimping tool to crimp the connector onto the wire securely.

Repeat this process for the other wire on the opposite side of the connector.

6. Crimp the Connection:

Make sure both wires are securely crimped into the butt splice connector. Tug gently on the wires to ensure they are firmly attached.

7. Seal the Connection:

Slide the heat shrink tubing from the kit over the splice connection.

Use a heat gun or lighter to evenly heat the tubing until it shrinks tightly around the connection. This helps to insulate and protect the splice from moisture.

8. Apply Electrical Tape:

Wrap electrical tape around the entire splice area for extra protection. Ensure that the tape overlaps and covers the ends of the heat shrink tubing.

9. Optional: Apply Waterproof Silicone Sealant:

For added waterproofing, you can apply a layer of waterproof silicone sealant over the taped area. Allow it to dry according to the manufacturer's instructions.

10. Bury the Wire:

Once the sealant is dry, carefully re-bury the wire in the soil. Make sure it is well protected and not at risk of being damaged again.

11. Turn On Power:

Turn the power back on at the breaker box and test the landscape light to ensure the splice is working correctly.

Tips:

Use Quality Tools: Ensure you have a good-quality wire stripper and crimper to make the job easier and more secure.

Check for Damage: Before you bury the wire, double-check that the splice is secure and there are no exposed wires.

Regular Inspections: Periodically check the spliced area to ensure it remains in good condition, especially after heavy rains or extreme weather conditions.

Good luck!